Happy New Year!

                                           Say Happy New Year in ten different languages

The Most Wonderful Time of Year

As the Christmas song goes, "It's the most wonderful time of the year."

But first comes that time presently upon us of preparation for Christmas. And one of the very best ways of preparing for Christmas is to start giving gifts early -- not so much the kind of gifts we usually give to relatives and friends on Christmas, but the life-saving and life-enhancing gifts of money and service to those most in need, especially those who are living on the edge of survival.

For countless poor human beings who dwell in the shadows of our nation and world, unseen and uncared for, such gifts are priceless.

So allow me to suggest several ways you can make a Christmas difference in the lives of some of our suffering brothers and sisters. Since there was no room at the inn for Joseph, Mary and Jesus, consider volunteering at a homeless shelter or soup kitchen.
 
As you know, this time of the year is the saddest time for lonely people, especially those who have recently lost a loved one or have no one to love them. Think about contacting a lonely soul and befriending him or her. If you don't know of anyone, ask a friend or your church.
 
Perhaps you might be able to put together a Christmas basket for a poor family. Again, your church or local social services agency should be able to help. Think about stopping by a nursing home. Many nursing home residents never get a visitor.

Making a donation to your church is also a fine idea.  From food distribution to low cost counseling to public policy advocacy, churches will put your gift to good work.

We still have time before Christmas to reach out to the poor and vulnerable near and far. And by doing so, our hearts will be ever more ready to sing, "It's the most wonderful time of the year!"

 

Tips for Winter Weather

Great tips for winter weather at this site:

http://emergency.cdc.gov/disasters/winter/duringstorm/outdoorsafety.asp

Thanksgiving Traditions

In many American households, the Thanksgiving celebration has lost much of its original religious significance; instead, it now centers on cooking and sharing a bountiful meal with family and friends. Turkey, a Thanksgiving staple so ubiquitous it has become all but synonymous with the holiday, may or may not have been on offer when the Pilgrims hosted the inaugural feast in 1621. Today, however, nearly 90 percent of Americans eat the bird—whether roasted, baked or deep-fried—on Thanksgiving, according to the National Turkey Federation. Other traditional foods include stuffing, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie. Volunteering is a common Thanksgiving Day activity, and communities often hold food drives and host free dinners for the less fortunate.

Parades have also become an integral part of the holiday in cities and towns across the United States. Presented by Macy’s department store since 1924, New York City’s Thanksgiving Day parade is the largest and most famous, attracting some 2 to 3 million spectators along its 2.5-mile route and drawing an enormous television audience. It typically features marching bands, performers, elaborate floats conveying various celebrities and giant balloons shaped like cartoon characters.

Beginning in the mid-20th century and perhaps even earlier, the president of the United States has “pardoned” one or two Thanksgiving turkeys each year, sparing the birds from slaughter and sending them to a farm for retirement. A number of U.S. governors also perform the annual turkey pardoning ritual.

 

Fall Vegetables

Broccoli

A member of the cabbage family, broccoli is an excellent source of vitamin C – providing 245% of your recommended daily allowance per 1 cup serving – as well as vitamin K and vitamin A. A multi-talented little vegetable, broccoli is thought to have excellent anti-cancer properties. The phytonutrient indole, for example, suppresses a chemical that is thought to support tumor growth, while sulforophane is thought to detoxify the body, flushing out potentially carcinogenic substances. As such, studies have linked the consumption of broccoli with a reduced risk of cancers of the bladder, liver, lung, colon, breast, ovaries and prostate. In addition, broccoli is an excellent source of bone-fortifying calcium and a great source of folic acid, which is thought to reduce the risk of birth defects. Broccoli can be eaten raw or cooked, but recent studies suggest that if you do plan on cooking it, steaming is the best way to preserve all of the vegetables various enzymes and nutrients.

  Brussels Sprouts           

Another member of the cabbage – or brassica – family, Brussels sprouts are also much touted for their cancer-fighting properties. However, Brussels sprouts in particular are often touted for their fiber, containing 4 grams of equal parts soluble and insoluble fiber. In addition, these teeny tiny cabbages are also thought to provide significant cardiovascular benefits and help reduce the risk of osteoarthritis, a degenerative form of arthritis that often occurs with aging. Although available year round, Brussels sprouts peak in the fall. They are best cooked whole or sliced in half, and are tasty when steamed or sauteed and served as a side dish.

   Cabbage

Available year round in grocery stores, cabbage will be at its best – and readily available at your local farmers’ market – towards the end of fall. As the head of the cabbage family, cabbage provides all of the health benefits of broccoli and Brussels sprouts, but, when juiced and drunk over the course of 10 days, can dramatically reduce the amount of time it takes to heal a peptic ulcer! When cooking cabbage – or just about any cruciferous vegetable – it’s important to note that breaking it apart – either through slicing, cutting or chewing – activates myrosinase enzymes, which in turn aid the release of anti-carcinogenic glucosinolates. Although these enzymes are denatured when you cook cabbage, you can preserve the amount of glucosinolates by slicing or chopping the cabbage and then letting it sit for between 10 and 15 minutes before lightly cooking, steaming or sautéing for no more than 5 minutes.

Cauliflower

Guess what? This one’s another member of the cabbage family.  Its only real distinction being that it lacks the chlorophyll necessary to give it the vibrant green hue of its relatives. But if there’s one advantage cauliflower does have, it’s that it is so darn adaptable! Do you miss eating carb-laden mash potatoes or having your stir fry over rice? Cauliflower makes a believable – yet far healthier – alternative (and with just a flip of the food processor switch!) And, new research shows that if you sprinkle your cauliflower with the spice turmeric, you can reduce the severity of prostate cancer, both in terms of tumor growth and metastasis. Although people generally only eat the heads of the cauliflower (known as the curds), the stem and leaves are also edible and can be used to add some extra flavor to soup stocks.

Onions

Yes, onions are available year round, but they are truly at their peak in the fall and winter. A true staple in the kitchen, onions are used to add flavor to sauce, soup, stew, eggs, and salads or even as a side dish all on their lonesome! Sulfur, the compound in the onion that gives it that great taste, also provides many of its health benefits. For example, sulfur is thought to reduce blood pressure and may also help to regulate blood cholesterol. In addition, onions are rich in chromium, which is thought to help prevent fluctuations in blood glucose levels, and contains a number of flavonoids that promote gastrointestinal health and reduce the risk of several types of cancer. Still not convinced? Onions have a number of anti-inflammatory agents that can help reduce the severity of symptoms associated with arthritis, asthma, and even the respiratory inflammation associated with good ol’ seasonal cold and flu!

Pumpkin 

If there were ever a symbol that fall has arrived, it’s the pumpkin! In fact, pumpkin is such a great fall vegetable, that tomorrow we’ll be dedicating an entire post to these tubby orange orbs and we’ll be following up with a whole slew of Primal-approved – and fall friendly – recipes!

Spinach

We’ve said it before, but we’ll say it again: Spinach is one heck of a vegetable! Spinach is a great source of vitamin K and vitamin A, as well as folate, magnesium and iron. In terms of specific health benefits, the various compounds in spinach are thought to help reduce the risk of several types of cancer, including tumors of the stomach, prostate, and skin, and also act as an anti-inflammatory to reduce the severity of symptoms associated with asthma, arthritis and other inflammatory conditions. When shopping for spinach, look for firm, crisp, deep green leaves. Spinach is great as a base for salads, delicious when added to soups or casseroles to provide bulk or simply on its own, cooked, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with salt and black pepper.

Texas Native Plant Week

As water becomes scarce due to ongoing drought conditions, we are facing another problem – the loss of native plants and habitats. Our native grasses, wildflowers, trees and shrubs, which support habitats for wildlife, are destroyed by the constant and progressive building on land supporting our native Texas heritage.

It is of utmost importance that we restore the native plant species serving as the primary elements needed for the ecosystem restoration due to excessive loss of habitats.

The importance of native plants lies in the benefits they offer:

• Provide food sources (seeds, nuts, nectar and fruits for birds, bats, pollinating insects and butterflies)
• Attract insects for birds to consume
• Provide habitats for birds, wildlife and larval host plants for butterflies

Additional benefits include:

• Requires less maintenance compared to introduced species
• Tolerates and resists local diseases, pests, and lack of water
• Protects the soil with long root systems
• Protects water quality by controlling soil erosion
• Minimizes the use of fertilizers and pesticides
• Costs less and delivers more benefits
• Conserves valuable water
• Unlikely to become invasive
• Low lawn maintenance with our native buffalo grass
• Adds beauty to the landscape
• Preserves our natural heritage to share with our children and their children

Although we promote Texas Native Plant Week the third week of October, it is vital to promote native plants and habitats all year long. A native landscape habitat works in harmony with all its surroundings giving us a sense of community across our state.

 

National Farm Safety Week

Following these tips, especially during harvest season, could save lives.

Use the buddy system to load and unload grain
Always know where all workers and family members are (especially children) at all times when handling grain in a wagon or storage bin and never work alone.  A 12-inch layer of grain can weigh as much as 300 pounds, enough to entrap a grown person or suffocate a child.

Farm Safety For Just Kids recommends locking all access doors to grain storage structures and locking out power to all types of grain-handling equipment when not in use. Also, never permit children to ride in grain wagons or enter grain storage areas. Adults should wear a body harness with a lifeline or use a boatswain’s chair.

Allow plenty of time for rest
Farm workers often put in long days to harvest crops in favorable weather conditions. It’s important to get enough rest to avoid accidents in the fields or on the roadways. Teens (ages 10-17) require 8.5 to 9 hours of sleep and adults need 7 to 9 hours, as reported by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

Make sure slow-moving vehicle signs are installed and easily seen
For 50 years slow-moving vehicle emblems have alerted drivers to a vehicle moving less than 25 mph. With the increased tractor and wagon traffic at harvest time, watch for slow-moving vehicles on roadways and be prepared to slow down. If you’re driving a tractor or combine, make sure the slow-moving vehicle emblem is mounted properly and is visible from the rear of your vehicle.

 

Ladybug

Fall Flower Planting

 

For gardeners, the delight of fall is not only the cooling temperatures, but that it is time to plant. This sounds strange but roots continue growing here during our mild winters, so fall is the best time to plant. Fall planting makes your plants ready to withstand the stress of high temperatures next summer. The exception to recommended fall planting is tropical plants such as lantana which are best planted in spring to develop strong enough root structure to withstand cold temperatures.

 

Now is the time to plant seeds for spring bloomers like columbines (in shade), larkspur (in part sun/ shade), and poppies (in full sun.) The spring bloomers take advantage of spring moisture. Then, when summer stress comes, they have done their show and are ready to rest. Very water wise! You can wait until late spring to sow seeds for summers bloomers like cosmos, but now is the time for planting spring bloomers.

 

Whether from a local nursery or mail order, purchase seeds of native wildflowers from a reliable source. Seeds planted now will give you months of color next spring, as well as the fun of seeing little green seedlings coming up through the winter.

 

1. Rake the soil surface smooth, removing rocks and sticks. If there is mulch, poke holes for planting.

2. Sow seeds evenly over soil; use rake to barely cover them; press seeds to make contact with soil.

3. Water gently; keep evenly moist first couple of weeks to ensure germination. After that, Mother Nature should take care for them unless it is an unusually dry fall/winter.

Don't Forget Your Old Friends

 

The day inevitably comes when you go to the tool shed to work the garden a little. It doesn’t matter the season, it is time to weed, or plant, or dig and you feel like doing something physical and productive. You reach for the hoe, or shovel, or cultivator and find a sad, rusty looking tool leaning against the wall. You wonder what happened to that new tool you bought just how many years ago. Or perhaps, you remember that the handle of the rake split last year and you put it away intending to get a new one the next time you were at the garden center.

 

Tools are like old books. They don’t really go bad; they are abused or neglected or ignored, but they are not rendered useless until they can no longer perform their intended function. A little time and minimal effort can keep garden tools looking good for many, many years and will insure that you won’t have to pay $30 or more for a cheap version of your old favorite.

 

There are two primary parts of most garden tools: the working end and the handling end. In most cases, the handling end is a hard wood that was originally protected with paint, varnish, or urethane. This finish wears away over time and you end up with a dull, brown finish that may start to crack or split. Without doing some serious woodwork, there isn’t much you can do to restore the original finish except keep it from deteriorating further.  Rubbing a coat of linseed oil over the wood annually can create a hard finish over time that will protect the outside and keep the inside from completely drying out and splitting.  Most applied grips like soft rubber on tools don’t last very long. A roll of tennis racket grip leather is relatively inexpensive and can be used to create a working grip as long as it is still comfortable in your hand. There are a few other tape products that can also be adapted to make a softer grip on a wooden handle, but there are few things sold for this specific purpose.  A cracked handle can be glued and screwed for a repair, but it can create additional problems if improperly done. When a handle breaks or becomes dangerous, replacement handles are available for most common tools. It may take a little woodworking skill to get the handle to fit tightly and properly but it will be a lot cheaper than buying a new tool that doesn’t feel right in your hands.

 

The working end of most tools is usually steel or iron with teeth (rakes and cultivators) or sharp edges (hoes and spades). The sharp edges can easily be kept in good working order with a flat file. A couple of swipes across the edges periodically can make hoeing or digging a much easier job. A bucket filled with sand and used motor oil is also handy. Plunging the teeth or edges into will the sand will help prevent rusting.

 

The upper steel part of a rake or hoe joins with the handle. These parts were probably painted when new. After time, they begin to rust. A little elbow grease with a wire brush or coarse steel wool can remove most of the rust so that a spray paint for metal will adhere and provide both protection and a pretty color. All tools are intended to do a job. Most do the job decently and will last a long time. In order to ensure this, a little light maintenance and care can keep a tool working effectively and efficiently.

August is the Time for Hummingbirds to Migrate

August: Peak Migration
August brings the biggest push south, and hummingbirds are gathering in huge numbers along the Gulf of Mexico. By August you may see no males at your feeders. Juvenile Rubythroats look so much like their mothers that most of us can't tell the difference. The babies have no memory of past migrations. They do not migrate with a parent. They just follow their urge to put on a lot of weight, fly in a southerly direction for a certain amount of time, and find a good place to spend winter. Hummingbirds migrate at the time when their food is most plentiful, and they leave when they are fat enough. Some follow the coastline of the Gulf of Mexico. Many—but not all—fly 500 miles nonstop across the water to Mexico and other Central American countries. It's a mystery how individual birds make the decision.

4-H Teaches Great Things

The cattle barn isn’t all that big.

The boy is sitting on his showbox next to his heifer. She’s not all that big, but he only weighs 50 pounds if he has a couple of rocks in the pockets of his worn jeans.

When it comes time to lead her to the wash rack, he gets pushed around. He’s doing well, but his dad is injured and he just hasn’t been able to help the boy like he wishes he could have.

So it doesn’t take long. Before the boy, or his parents, knows what is happening an older 4-Her jumps up to help him rinse. Later on, an older boy offers to help. And then two girls wonder if they can help him practice showmanship.

And so it goes. The older kids help him and he learns.

Not too far away, a little girl stands on the fence looking down at her pig.

“She was afraid of them at first,” her mom says. But now, she’s clearly comfortable. An older girl at least 10 years older leans down and says something to her. The younger girl hops down and picks up a hose and quickly cools her pig down from the stifling heat. It’s obvious the older girl has been the younger one’s guide—teaching her what to do but letting her become comfortable with what was once a scary proposition.

It happens time and time again. Not only in this barn, in this county, at this county fair, but all over the country in other barns, at other fairs.

It happens in the kitchen, when one 4-Her shows another how to smooth the buttercream just right to get the even look she wants. It happens on the shooting range, when a teenager holds a shotgun showing the younger boy how to aim quickly.

It’s yet another example of what is so right about the 4-H program. Young people take on the role of teachers to younger members. They become leaders, without even knowing it is happening. They remember being there—not knowing how to keep their pig from bolting out of the gate—and so they share what they have learned.

It’s a legacy. The responsibility of that legacy is passed down every year with no formal ceremony or fanfare. The 4-Hers who have the honor today didn’t ask for it. They simply knew that someone once helped them and that’s what you do. It’s what is right.

The 4-H program teaches service and kindness, but it isn’t done by command. That service is taught through example. Young members watch, they learn and then, all too soon, they are the ones setting the examples.

Those older 4-H members become role models. They are the “good kids” parents of young children feel happy their child can emulate. And perhaps that’s the best thing to watch: a younger child watching an older one doing what is right—not because it means they will win an award, but because they have learned kindness and leadership by example. Some day, when those older 4-Hers become parents themselves, only then will they appreciate how important their acts were.

And the mom of the boy who received all of the help with his heifer? She will be eternally grateful for the kindness of those young people. It means more than they will ever know

 

Determining when vegetables are ready to harvest

Many vegetables will let you know when it’s time to bring them in by giving you clues. All you need to know is what they are:

Color. Most people understand to pick a tomato when it has reached the color that it is supposed to be—that’s easy. What you may not know is that winter squash will do the same thing, just developing their full color when ripe. They can take some frost as well, so if they’re not ready don’t rush it. Just be sure to get them in before a killing frost.

Size: Relatively Small. Snow and sugar peas, which you eat pod and all, should be picked before the seeds inside start to develop; likewise garden beans and wax beans. Kohlrabi should be harvested when it is about the size of a golf ball; any larger and they get woody, which ruins the flavor. Summer squash and cucumbers can be eaten when they are bigger, but squash tastes better when it’s young and cucumbers have a tendency to get seedy later in life.

Size: Relatively Big. The opposite is true for peas and beans that you will remove from the pod, to a point. For most, like shell peas and limas, go ahead and let them get plump. For fava beans, the same is almost true. After a point they can get woody as well. They would have to be pretty darn big, though.

Size: That Depends. Okra should be harvested no bigger than what the seed packet recommends. For most this is just a few inches, but some varieties grow larger. Cabbage can be harvested small or allowed to get bigger. If they get too big, they can split; still edible, but a little messier. Brussels sprouts are like cabbages, and can be enjoyed at any size, just don’t let them get so large they begin to open. Carrots will give you an indication of how big they are if you brush back a little soil from around the stem. Be careful though: carrots are great deceivers. Even though they may actually be smaller than they appear, they are most likely still edible.

Before They Bolt. Bolting is simply the term we use for when a plant produces flowers that we don’t want. What we harvest from broccoli and cauliflower are actually unopened flower heads, and that’s the way to harvest them. The same is true for basil and most salad greens; they are better brought in before they start making flowers.

When They Fall Down. Really, does it get any easier than an actual show of “we are ready”? Potatoes, onions and Jerusalem artichokes, aka sunchokes, will actually fall over when it’s time to harvest. Potatoes can be picked as ‘new’ potatoes as soon as you see flowers, but the stems falling over are an indication that the plants are done producing. Onions are most certainly done. Jerusalem artichokes can be harvested starting at this point, and continuing on even after a frost. Some say they actually taste better then.

Miscellaneous. Pick both hot and sweet peppers early to encourage more growth, then let them turn color as they mature, depending on the variety. Pick corn when the ears produce a milky substance from the kernels. This is about 3 weeks from when you first see the silks. Bring in all your sweet potatoes before the frost. Eggplants get shiny skins when they are ripe. Melons are Difficult. Watermelons make a “thump” when you tap on them, and their skins turn color where it meets the ground. Not too bad. All other types of melon simply take practice to know when they are ripe. I guess they just don’t want to give their secrets away.

Growing Clean Air

      
House plants have added beauty and warmth to our homes, offices and buildings for many years. Researchers have also found that certain house plants can improve the air we breathe.

During the energy crisis of the '70s, people were encouraged to insulate their homes and offices, add caulking to walls and ceilings, and add more weather-stripping - all of which is effective in conserving energy resources.

But sealing our homes, offices and buildings has also contributed to what is now called "sick building syndrome." Gases from synthetic materials can be trapped inside well-insulated buildings. Some researchers believe there is a link between long-term exposure to these chemical vapors and an increase in a number of diseases, including allergies; asthma; eye, nose and throat irritations; fatigue; headache; nervous system disorders; respiratory congestion, and sinus congestion.

Several common house plants are believed to help clean the air in our homes and offices by removing trapped chemical vapors. Here are ten of them: rubber plant, Dracaena, English ivy, ficus, Boston fern, Spathiphyllum (peace lily), corn plant, Schefflera, weeping fig, and spider plant.

Now you can enjoy having plants in your home and work place - and breathe a little easier at the same time.

Why Do Earthworms Surface After Rain?

Earthworms laying on sidewalks or streets after a heavy spring rain has become commonplace, but why do they do this ... and could they be a travel hazard?

Researchers hypothesize several reasons why heavy rain storms bring crawlers out of their soil homes.

For years scientists seemed to think the only reason earthworms came to the soil surface after a good rain was to prevent drowning in their water-filled burrows.

This is not true as earthworms breathe through their skins and actually require moisture in the soil to do so.  Earthworms are unable to drown like a human would, and they can even survive several days fully submerged in water.

Soil experts now think earthworm’s surface during rain storms for migration purposes.  "It gives them an opportunity to move greater distances across the soil surface than they could do through soil.  They cannot do this when it is dry because of their moisture requirements."

Certain species of earthworms surface to mate, but only a few of the 4,400 existing species, making it unlikely that mating is a primary reason for widespread surfacing.

Another explanation involves rain drop vibrations on the soil surface sounding similar to predator vibrations, like that of moles. Earthworms often come to the surface to escape moles.

Rain can set up vibrations on top of the soil like mole vibrations.  Similar to how earthworms move upwards and out of the way when predator vibrations are felt, they could move in a similar way for rain vibrations.  Similarly, humans create vibrations when "fiddling" for bait earthworms.

To coax worms from their burrows, fishermen run a piece of steel or a hand saw across the top of a stake, which causes a rubbing sound to occur as the stake vibrates.  Earthworms are then moved to the surface, much to the fisherman's delight.

Can Drought Affect Worms?

It is essential that worms live in a moist environment, but during drought conditions, life is certainly more difficult for a worm.  Earthworms dig deeper into the soil where it is moister when conditions are dry. They will do all they can to avoid extreme temperature fluctuations.

Earthworm Swarming

New research published in the journal Ethology revealed that earthworms form herds, swarming together to make "group decisions." Earthworms use touch to communicate and interact, according to scientists who performed experiments on earthworm swarms outside of soil.  Research confirmed that social cues among earthworms influence behavior.  Exactly why earthworms have come to form herds is still being investigated, but it is possible that worms swarm to protect themselves. Protection from weather elements hasn't been ruled out.

Esperanza

As its common name “esperanza” (Spanish for “hope”) seems to suggest, Tecoma stans is our great hope for showy flowers during the heat of late summer.  The long-blooming esperanza is  a multi-branched shrub which can grow several feet high. Its abundant green foliage makes it an attractive landscape plant, even between bloomings. Leaves are several inches long and lanced-shaped with serrated margins.

Intermittently, from April to the first hard freeze, esperanza has profuse clusters of large bright-yellow trumpet-shaped flowers. The ones in our yard seem to have some of their branches in bloom almost continuously from mid summer to late fall. This plant is widely used for commercial landscaping in this area, because it so heat- and drought-tolerant.

Yellow is the usual color of Tecoma stans flowers. Other common names are “yellow bells” and “yellow trumpet.” However, an orange-colored variety also has been propagated for the nursery trade.

Esperanza is in the same family as desert willow, trumpet vine, and catalpa. Tecoma stans is not found in Marshall Enquist’s “Wildflowers of the Texas Hill Country,” because its natural range does not include the Edwards Plateau. However, it was collected nearby in Bexar and Hays Counties (“Atlas of the Vascular Plants of Texas”). It also grows from Trans-Pecos Texas to Florida, in Mexico, and in the Caribbean.

According to some taxonomists there is a western variety (T. stans var. angustata) found in the Trans-Pecos and a more tropical variety (T. stans var. stans) found in southeastern Texas and the Rio Grande Valley. The western variety has narrow, deeply incised leaflets. Whichever variety is sold in the local nursery trade seems to survive just fine in this area..

Judging from the natural habitat of the West Texas esperanza, this plant would prefer garden sites with full sun and good drainage. It is drought-tolerant. We rarely water our esperanza bushes.
Esperanza is not cold tolerant in the Hill Country and north. The bushes in our yard die back completely every winter, but they always send up new foliage in the spring. They seem to grow slowly at first, but begin to add foliage rapidly as the temperature gets hotter. Ours reach their flowering peak in late summer and early fall. We always look forward to their bright-yellow blooms.
In many local gardens, whitetail deer do not browse esperanza except during times of diminished food supply when overpopulation pressure becomes especially high.

The first time I was aware of esperanza in the wild was on the wall of a dry limestone canyon in northern Mexico south of Big Bend National Park. Despite months of severe drought in that area, its woody branches bore clusters of yellow trumpets. Last fall we saw it blooming along a very hot, dry stream bed in Big Bend Park.

Esperanza is as tough as it is beautiful. It even bloomed during last summer’s extreme heat spell.

From:  Native Plant Society of Texas

Ground Covering

If you're looking to add some low-growing plants to your landscape, consider using some annual flowers to provide a splash of bright color. Just as we vary flower and foliage size and texture to provide interest in a flower bed design, we should also consider plant height or relative lack of height.  

We've all heard the saying "can't see the forest for the trees."  The tall trees and understory brush are simply too dense a growth for our vision to penetrate. A clearing in the forest makes for a more beautiful view.  It is the same in a landscape or in a flower bed.  Quality design includes void, empty space, a clearing so we may see all there is to see and enjoy.  A void in the landscape needs a floor covering, for dirt can be considered ugly and may erode away.

 

 

Turf is an excellent floor covering for large areas of void.  Low growing annual flowers can provide the pizazz, the color contrast, the attention grabbing burst of color for smaller areas or areas within a flower bed of taller plants.

So You Want to Raise Chickens?

There are many lessons to be learned when keeping your chickens and the main one, I think, is - they either have a sense of humor or they're just inconsiderate! Here are a few things to watch out for..........

Although fed with an ample staple diet of corn and pellets, they are very partial to human toe nails. I therefore recommend you should forget fashion sense and wear socks when entering the pen.

Buttons to chickens look like large layers pellets. Do not bend over if you have a back pocket button.

Wherever you want to go in the pen, chickens will try and speculate your route and go ahead. This can cause you much harm (to self, not the chicken) by falling over them. It is one reason that all my chickens are named 'Getoutthebloominway'.

No matter how warm and cozy you have made their nest box. No matter how many hours it took you to build it, there is about a one in ten chance of them actually using it. Most prefer lawnmower grass boxes, coal sheds and nice little places behind 4' tall stinging nettles.

When introducing new chickens it might pay to do so at night. When they get up at dawn, they can't remember how many of them there were the night before and they just get on with it.

Chickens have a great appreciation for humans wishing to exercise. This becomes apparent if you want to pick one up. In a pen 40' x 40', they will give you at least an 800 meter workout.

One of their favorite games is 'Dare'. This is getting the worm out the ground before the spade goes in again.

Never live next door to a bar. Chickens are attracted to alcohol. Not drinking it, but they know that after a few drinks, the people in there are a soft touch for anything that's going (chickens look for the chance of a ham

sandwich or chips).

They will not drink their water from the supplied container when it's dirty. However, chuck the old water on the muddy ground, and guess where they will take their next drink from!

Again, chickens are very partial to human toe nails. It is not recommended to wear sandals in the pen.

Finally, you are strongly advised not to have a garden picnic within 5 miles of your home. They see that as their invitation. 

 

Garden Checklist for June

Garden Checklist for June 2013

Dr. William C. Welch, Professor & Landscape Horticulturist
Texas A&M AgriLife Extension

Self-sown zinnias
• Supplemental irrigation is essential for all but the hardiest plants in times of extended drought. Water lawn and garden thoroughly, but not too frequently. As a general rule, soak to a depth of 8 inches. Finish watering by early afternoon, to lessen the chance of disease.
• Check watermelons for ripeness regularly. They are usually ready when the bottom portion is definitely yellow green or even yellow in color.
• Take a critical look at your landscape while at the height of summer development. Make notes of how you think it can be better arranged, plants that need replacement, overgrown plants that need to be removed, and possible activity areas that can be enjoyed by family members.
• Check for insects and diseases. Destroy badly infested plants. Spider mites can be especially troublesome at this time. Select a chemical or organic control, or use insecticidal soap.
• Especially during dry summers, soil moisture becomes extremely important and essential for good plant production. Because continual watering is oftentimes costly and time consuming, it pays to conserve the moisture around plants. This is best done by mulching. A good mulch will retain valuable moisture needed for plant growth, and improve overall gardening success. Mulches are usually applied 2 to 6 inches deep, depending on the material used. In general, the coarser the material, the deeper the mulch. For example, a 2-inch layer of cottonseed hulls will have about the same mulching effect as 6 inches of oat straw or 4 inches of coastal Bermuda hay.
• There is still time to plant some of the colorful, heat-tolerant summer annuals. Direct-seed zinnias and portulaca, and purchase plants of periwinkle, salvia, marigold, and purslane. Be sure to water transplants as needed until roots become established.
• Removing faded flowers from plants before they set seed will keep them growing and producing flowers. A light application of fertilizer every 4 to 6 weeks will also be helpful.
• House plants can be moved out of doors this month. Sink the pots in a cool, shaded garden bed to prevent them from drying out so quickly; water pots, container plants, and hanging baskets often. Monthly feedings with house plant fertilizer will encourage continued growth.
• Now is the time to plan for next spring. Consider digging and dividing any crowded spring bulbs. Once the bulbs have matured and the foliage has turned brown, it is time to spade them up and thin out the stand. Crowded bulbs produce fewer and smaller blooms. They usually need thinning every 3 to 4 years.
• June is the time to select daylily varieties as they reach their peak of bloom.
• Fertilize roses every 4 to 6 weeks. Apply a high-nitrogen fertilizer immediately after a flush of bloom.
• Continue to spray susceptible roses with a black-spot control such a Funginex every 7 to 10 days.
• Re-blooming salvias, such as Salvia greggii and S. farinacea, should be pruned back periodically during the summer. To make the job easier, use hedging shears, and remove only the spent flowers and a few inches of stem below. Fall-blooming perennials, such as Mexican marigold mint (Tagetes lucida), chrysanthemums, physostegia, and Salvia leucantha, should be pruned in the same manner during the summer to keep them compact, reducing the need for staking. This type of pruning should be completed prior to September 1, since flower buds begin forming about that time.

Choose Plants That Are Easy To Care For

Let's face it. Some plants, like some people, are just plain high maintenance. Others need just a little help getting established and then do quite well on their own.  Trees and shrubs generally require less maintenance, with exceptions such as roses and camellias that may need a little extra spraying and/or pruning. Slow growing and dwarf types require less pruning and aren't likely to need to be attacked on a regular basis to keep them in bounds. If you plant ever-green shrubs keep in mind that shearing them into box or other shapes means regular trimming and much more work than maintaining them in a more natural shape or form.

Choose plants that are adapted to your area and not prone to disease or insect attack. Most types of Euonymus for example while widely planted are magnets for powdery mildew and/or scale, and should be avoided. Annual flowers can keep you busy, planting, fertilizing, deadheading (in some cases), and then pulling them out to replant. To keep an area colorful you may be making 3 or more color changes a year. Perennials are a bit less trouble, but still need some grooming and feeding. Every so often they may also need dividing to keep them in top shape.  This is certainly not to say that we should avoid flowers…may it never be! just that to minimize maintenance, choose where you want them to go carefully to get maximum effect from minimum effort.

 
Clumping ornamental grasses are underutilized in our landscapes. They are very low care and add an attractive feature with the long lines and graceful movement in the wind. Cut them back in late winter and pro-vide a little fertilizer and you're pretty much done with their maintenance for the year.

Don't crowd plants into a small space. Crowding makes it more difficult to work around plants and costs more initially as you are purchasing more plants than you need. Tightly spaced plants prevent good air circulation which can sometimes increase the incidence of diseases. Roses are an example of a plant that is more prone to foliar diseases when crowded.

Lighten the Weight of Heavy Potted Plants

 

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Foam peanuts

A foundation of foam peanuts makes pots easier to move and improves drainage.

Solution:
Buy a bag of foam packing peanuts instead (available at office supply stores). Fill the pot one-third to one-half full of peanuts, cover with landscape fabric and then add soil. This cuts the weight and saves money, since peanuts cost less than good potting soil. However, a smaller amount of soil means more frequent watering. To slow evaporation, cover the soil with wood mulch.

Avoid Gardening Injuries

It is time to get back into the garden and start doing all the things we need to do to ensure we have a glorious outside space. So what do we do? We get out there and get on with it.

Let me share a statistic here before we go any further. Come spring, gardening-related injuries reach levels of epidemic proportions, both in numbers and intensity. Rushing back into your garden in spring is tantamount to a professional footballer going straight into a match after the holiday. Doctors are warning people to at least warm up, if not get fit, before going out in the garden.

Gardening injuries vary widely, from your common garden variety blisters and calluses to crushed extremities, puncture wounds, pulled ligaments and herniated discs.  As an absolute minimum, you should be doing some gentle stretching and warm up exercises before going out to the garden. 

There are many ways to make sure you are able to keep gardening through the summer.  For example, cushion your knees with knee pads or an old folded up blanket.  Alternate tasks so you don’t spend too long digging, but move on to pruning for a little while, then do some weeding and then come back to the digging.  This will avoid repetitive strain injuries.

Don’t bend from the waist to lift something.  It is better to squat and remember to face the way you need to go so you don’t turn awkwardly and twist your spine.  Using smaller implements, especially when digging, helps because there is less to carry.  It may take a bit longer but you will actually finish the job instead of spending the rest of the day as a casualty.

Perhaps the best and simplest advice would have to be:  if it hurts, stop!

 

Pray for those affected by storms in Oklahoma and Texas

GreenScaping

Do you want to have a greener, healthier yard while helping the environment and saving both money and time? It almost sounds too good to be true, but GreenScaping can achieve all these things.

Here’s how to create a GreenScape:

 
1. Build and maintain healthy soils with composting and mulching. Contact your local Extension office to learn more about soil testing, the first step to knowing what your soil needs. If your soil needs nutrients, feed it with compost you made in your backyard with your yard waste clippings. Mulching is another strategy that greatly improves the production of flowers and vegetables.

2. Plant right for your site. In addition to selecting plants that are appropriate for your growing climate and that are resistant to pests in your area, choose plants that attract beneficial wildlife to the garden.

3. Practice smart watering. Water conservation is a must for all gardeners. Smart watering starts with rain gardens, rain barrels, and making every drop count.

4. Adopt a holistic approach to pest
Sustainability — GreenScaping management, starting with prevention. Recognizing beneficial insects and accepting some imperfections can go a long way toward reducing pesticide use.

5. Practice natural lawn care. Leave grass clippings on the lawn, and mow regularly at the correct height to have a healthier lawn. Natural fertilizers, watering, and overseeding are a few more practices to consider.

Learn more about GreenScaping at www.epa.gov/GreenScapes